Also, Kauai & the Big Island

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Recommendations '05 Maui

Hawaii is an area I return to again and again. (As a reminder, these are personal ones for which I receive no remuneration.) Should you travel to that part of the world and use them, I would appreciate feedback. Please let me know whether you agree or not.

Sights and Activities – As recommended last year but worth repeating, be sure to watch the windsurfers from Hookipa Beach, travel the entire road around Hana (not for the timid), ride a bike from the top of Haleakala (You only need to pedal about ten times until arriving in Paia.), take a whale watch tour (winter months only), enjoy the beaches (McKenna, my favorite), and of course, simply chill.

There are three NEW recommendations this year –
visit the I'ao Valley and the Eye of the Needle, simply beautiful, and spend several hours at the Maui Ocean Center, an extremely well done aquarium. Though out of the way and hard to find, the Ali'i Kula Lavender Gardens in Upcountry is worth the trip. A word to the wise, get directions first. Getting there is as much fun as the gardens themselves. What views! Incidentally, if you plan to eat lunch there, reservations are a must. For more info click here.

Restaurants and Food – Last year I recommended several Paia restaurants, and the following remain on the list: Charley's ("best breakfast in Maui"), Jacques Northshore (great dinner location), Milagros (for a Mexican twist), and the Paia Fishmarket (much less pricey than Mama's Fish House and the fish just as tasty). For a delectable gourmet experience, have at least one meal at the Haliimaile General Store (tel. 808/572-2666). This Epicurean experience is located in Upcountry, about a 15 minute drive from Paia.

There are three NEW recommendations this year. The first is
Cafe Mambo located at 30 Baldwin Ave. in Paia (579-8021). As with everyplace in funky Paia, the service is laid-back and friendly. (If Suzanne is working, ask to sit at one of her tables.) You will see many locals dining there, for me, a sign of good food. The tapas, paella, and fajitas are delectable. One syllable describes the 7 Vegetable Stew, YUM! The sauces and broths are beautifully seasoned. I enjoyed three dinners there. If you desire, you can bring your own bottle of wine, no corkage fee. For delectable pizza (served only in the evening), go to Colleen's at the Cannery in Haiku – 810 Haiku Rd. at the Marketplace (575-9211). Not in the mood for pizza, well-prepared entrees are served both at lunch and dinner. The third is Komoto Bakery in Makawao Town, a small artist community upcountry from Paia, where you can enjoy decadent Maui-Sadas (take my word - you will love them). Arrive in the morning while they are still warm.

Typical view along the west coast
View from Hookipa Beach
Ali'i
One shot of the lavender gardens
Cafe Mambo
New Recommendations including revisits for '07
One cannot travel to Hawaii without coming back with many suggestions. Some are based on revisits while others are new.
Funky Mambo's
Sign outside the cafe
Malasadas at Komodo Bakery

Restaurants: Even though Paia (the town where we traditionally stay) is a small community – thus, no need to directions – there are a number of exceptional restaurants within the downtown area. Dress is always informal. Most feature seafood as a specialty. However, most also offer excellent vegetarian as well as other meat options. The first group below are establishments I have suggested in the past, have revisited on this trip, and still believe they offer superb food, 8/10 or above. A favorite is Charley's, named after a dog – the late Charley P. Woofer. It is rated "the best breakfast on Maui." The Paia Fish Market for informal sit down or carry out provides great value - the food every bit as good as the much pricier Mama's Fishhouse down the road. For a Mexican twist, enjoy lunch or dinner at the Milagros Food Company. Another favorite is Cafe Mambo. As with everyplace in funky Paia, its service is laid-back and friendly. You will see many locals dining there, for me, a sign of good food. The tapas, paella, and fajitas are delectable. Finally, for a delectable gourmet experience, have at least one meal at the Hali'imaile General Store (tel. 808/572-2666). Many restaurant critics rate Bev Gannon, the chef - owner, as the best in Hawaii. Based upon our several lunch visits, we could not agree more. This Epicurean experience is located upcountry, about a 15 minute drive from Paia.

There are two new endorsement this year, both downtown Paia. The first goes to
Cafe des Amis. The crepes are marvelous, the dessert ones – decadent, especially the chocolate with nutella. We paid two visits there on this trip. For incredible pizza containing all organic produce, visit the Flatbread Company near town center. The crust is unique in the most positive way. Visit its web site at http://www.flatbreadcompany.com.


Bakery: Komodo Bakery in Makawao, a small artist community upcountry from Paia, is where you can enjoy decadent malasadas (take my word – you will love them). Arrive in the morning while they are still warm. The cream puffs are also wonderful! (The poem above on "sinning" was inspired during my one of several visits there.)

Coffee: Frankly, I am not much of a coffee drinker. I prefer tea. However, my trip companions, Janice and Barbara, love their morning brew and are very particular about its taste and strength. They claim that some of the best cups of java that they have ever had were at Anthony's Coffee Company on the main drag of Paia.

Gardens and Gallery: 1) On my last trip I recommended and continue to recommend a visit to the Ali'i Kula Lavender Gardens in Upcountry. Getting there is as much fun as the gardens themselves. What views! Incidentally, if you plan to eat lunch there, reservations are a must. Besides viewing the flora, be sure to take home some special jams with hints of lavender. 2) If you love watercolor as I do, then a visit to Sherri Reeve's Gallery in Makawao is a "must add" to your list. Sherri's paintings are filled with vibrancy and details uncommon to many watercolor artists' work. She has done so many creative things with her art that any budget can afford examples of it. A real plus, the staff are very friendly and accommodating. Sherri on specific days is in the studio and will sign her work, whether it be a large limited edition print or a small art tile.

For more info on the lavender gardens, click here.

For more info on Sherri Reeve's, click here.

Artist Sherri Reeve at work

Recommendations '08 (Two trips)

Maui, Hawaii : Faithful readers know that when I travel to Hawaii, I always return with recommended 'musts' should you visit that part of the world. This year is no exception. This issue will focus on Maui. Next month I will focus on Oahu. As always, most of my suggestions are not the traditional ones around the congested Lahaina-Kihei-Wailea areas. Instead, they are where the crowds aren't. (Bear with me, some are repeated indicating their strong standing with me.)

To Do: Besides driving the road to Hana, seeing the view from the top of Haleakala, taking a whale watching boat tour during the winter months (the Lahaina area), enjoying the many beaches, especially Makena, be sure to take the drive to Tedeschi Winery in Upcountry. A fun time even if you don't drink wine! Be sure to stop along the way to take pictures and visit the little shops and stores. Enjoy lunch (very low key and informal) at The Ulupalakua Ranch Store just across the road from the winery. (If Johnny is cooking, tell him that Bob sent you.) But don't turn around there, as most tourists do; instead drive at least 10 miles farther down the road to see the dry side of Maui and the black volcanic remains. The farther you travel, the more isolated you become. Eventually, the road becomes unpaved and single lane. Sadly, you can no longer complete the back circuit to Hana due to a huge landslide.


A Place to Stay: Finding a place to stay in the Paia is becoming more and more difficult. There is an anti-tourist wave hitting the Islands even though it is a major source of revenue for many. This year we stayed at the Blue Tile Beach House with million dollar views and feet from the ocean. The prices were reasonable for that part of the world. We plan to stay there again. If you stay there, be sure to tell them that Bob sent you.


Food: Even though Paia (the town where we traditionally stay) is a small community – thus, no need for directions – there are a number of funky restaurants serving delicious meals within the downtown area. Dress is always informal. Most feature seafood as a specialty. However, most also offer excellent vegetarian as well as other meat options. The establishments below have been suggested in the past and continue to receive that status. They offer wonderful food, 8/10 or above. The Paia Fish Market for informal sit down or carry out provides great value - the food every bit as good as the much pricier Mama's Fishhouse down the road. At Cafe des Amis the crepes are marvelous, the dessert ones – decadent. We paid two additional visits there on this trip. For incredible pizza containing all organic produce, visit the Flatbread Company near town center. The crust is unique in the most positive way. Visit its web site at http://www.flatbreadcompany.com.

For a delectable gourmet experience, have at least one meal at the Hali'imaile General Store (tel. 808/572-2666). Many restaurant critics rate Bev Gannon, the chef - owner, as one of the best in Hawaii. Based upon our numerous lunch visits, we could not agree more. This Epicurean experience is located upcountry, about a 15 minute drive from Paia. (The evening pricing is much steeper.)

Komodo Bakery in Makawao, a small artist community upcountry from Paia, is where you can enjoy decadent malasadas (take my word – you will love them). Arrive in the morning while they are still warm. The cream puffs are also wonderful! Despite the distance, we always make several visits there during our stays.

For coffee drinkers I continue to recommend Anthony's Coffee Company on the main drag of Paia. Two companions claimed it to be the best coffee they have tasted.


Gardens and Galleries: 1) Ali'i Kula Lavender Gardens in Upcountry is a wonderful, almost meditative place to visit. Walking the grounds can be serene with expansive views of the Maui coastline below. Incidentally, if you plan to eat lunch there, reservations are a must. Besides viewing the flora, be sure to take home some special jams with hints of lavender. Over the last several years, these gardens have continued to expand. In speaking with the owner, Alii Chang, he has just begun! 2) If you love watercolor, as I do, then a visit to Sherri Reeve's Gallery in Makawao is a "must add" to your list. Sherri's paintings are filled with vibrancy and details uncommon to many watercolor artists' work. She has done so many creative things with her art that any budget can afford examples of it. A real plus, the staff are very friendly and accommodating. Ask for Eloise to assist you. Sherri on specific days is in the studio and will sign her work, whether it be a large limited edition print or a small art tile. 3) A new gallery recommendation this year, though I have visited it many times, is The Curtis Wilson Gallery located downstairs from the Kula Lodge Restaurant. The gallery is small but contains some of the most magnificent images of Maui or of anywhere else I have seen. Though I cannot afford a traditional print of this talented artist's works, I have purchased beautiful cards and small framed copies that are within everyone's budget. Incidentally, the restaurant above serves very good food with a stunning view.

    Haleakala Crater
    Tedeschi Winery
    Road beyond winery toward Hana (dry side)
    View from Blue Tile Beach House room
    Ali'i Chang giving talk
    Ali'i Kula Lavender Garden
    includes large picture below
    Recommendations '09 (Two trips)

    Obviously, I can't travel to this paradise without offering some suggestions. I have been blessed with the opportunity to travel there many, many times. This time, I tried to search out some new venues for you. I will also mention a few that have proven their staying power over multiple visits. All the below are on the Island of Maui.

    • Places to Stay: There are two new places to add to my list. Both are in the Paia area away from the maddening crowds, and both will set you back a few shekels, the first less than the second. The Paia Inn is relatively new on the tourist map and is situated in the heart of Paia. You are very near a beautiful beach and have a guaranteed parking place, which, trust me, is a real plus in this small town. The rooms are tastefully decorated with original art. The cottages, which cost a bit more, offer a spaciousness that I believe is worth the extra expense. Nina, a lifelong Maui resident, and the staff will do everything possible to make your stay an enjoyable one as well as offering knowledgeable sightseeing ideas. In fact, several suggestions in this section came about due to conversations with her. (For fans of Trip Advisor, this inn receives top ratings from those who have stayed there.) The second location is the Inn at Mama's Fish House. The restaurant has been a Maui dining icon for decades. When the owners decided to create an inn, they went first class all the way. The interior decor of the room where we stayed was splendid to behold. I cannot fault anything from the suite size, beach view, furnishings, or decor. For a splurge, it is a beautiful place to stay. (Disclaimer: Ordinarily, I do not stay in such upscale places as Mama's but was able to through travel points I have collected over the years.)
    • Places to Visit: Nina suggested this one, the Surfing Goat Dairy. "Wait," you say, "a goat dairy?" Yes, for an unusual fun time, find this hard to locate dairy. It is funky in layout from the old surfboard signs that greet you to the small open ornate reception area. Organized tours are available for those so inclined. If you enjoy delectable varieties of award winning goat cheese, then this is a must stop. (For the uninitiated, goat cheese is mild and smooth in texture.) For $3 you can also purchase a small carrying case with a frozen ice pack to transport your purchases home. While on Maui, I always must visit two places that have become very familiar over the years. They are Sherri Reeves Galley in Makawao – gorgeous watercolors and merchandise for everyone's budget and Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm in Upcountry – a tranquil place with a broad selection of lavender products, friendly staff, and spectacular view of the coastline.
    • Restaurants: On my site are a number of suggestions about where to dine, from fancy to small restaurant that locals frequent. Today, I am adding two new ones to the list. Both suggestions came from Nina. She never steered us wrong. A relatively new restaurant that sets back off the street in Makawao is the Fresh Market Bistro at 3620 Baldwin Avenue. As another reviewer stated, "Chef Justin learned from the best in NYC, and here he gets to set his talent loose." We enjoyed lunch there. The food is primarily locally grown and raised. The mahi-mahi sandwich with fresh greens and the chicken salad sandwich flavored with rosemary were delectable. There were vegetarian options as well. The place is not fancy but serves very good food. Another small restaurant that takes some detective work to locate is La Provence on Lower Kula Road (Hint: it is a couple doors from the gas station.) There is a small bakery inside so save some room. Chef Michelier truly knows how to deliver creative French cuisine. Beware that the restaurant is only open Wednesday - Sunday.
    Gracious Nina from the Paia Inn
    Surfing Goat Dairy
    Friendly service at Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm – Deborah and Toni
    Recommendations '10 (Spent the month of February on Maui)

    All the recommendations from early years still hold. If not, they have been eliminated.

    Recommendations

    • My Blog: Go to my NEW blog to read the many recommendations.

    • MauiGrown Coffee Company Store: What a great discovery, and I don't even drink much coffee. However, after my visit that is going to change. Tom will give you samples of coffee made from the different beans and explain the nuances and subtleties. Fascinating!

    • Old Style Potato Chips: Stop by and enjoy crisp, tasty Maui Kitchen Cook'd Potato Chips. They can be purchased at the factory at 295 Lalo Place, Kahului.
    The company store is located just outside of Lahaina. After
    tasting the coffee, take the self-guided tour through the
    the coffee fields. The views are spectacular.




    Recommendations '05 Kauai

    Activities – There are so many things to do that books are written on the topic. I am recommending three to you. Waimia Canyon (pictures above) is a must see on the Garden Isle. However, no matter where you travel, expect heavy traffic along much of the major highways, especially early morning when Kauaians are heading to work as well as afternoon when they head home. The Kauai Products Fair in Kapa'a (Thursday - Sunday) is definitely worth a stop. I left somewhat poorer! If you enjoy coffee, then be sure to visit Kauai Coffee Company – excellent opportunity to sample a wide selection of local java. For more info, click here.

    A booth at the Kauai Products Fair
    Entrance to the Kauai Coffee Company

    Recommendations '08 Big Is.

    Big Island: 1) If you get over to the Big Island, be sure to add a visit to the Hawaiian Vanilla Company located in Paauilo, HI 96776 – (808) 776-1771. Signup for the gourmet lunch (by reservation), one of the best I have ever had. Vanilla is integrated into each of the five courses. A tour of the farm is included. Owner Jim Reddekopp along with his family will make you feel welcomed. 2) If you love chocolate, be sure to visit the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory located in Kailua-Kona – 808-322-2626. It is the ONE chocolate grown, harvested, processed and packaged in Hawai'i. Since location of the factory is on a working farm, tours are scheduled by appointment only. Owner Bob Cooper really knows his stuff.

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